When Leane Darling and I were sure that we would be going to Peru, Leane came up with a schedule…the trifecta, if you will, of things we had to do while we were there.

The first thing on that list was Pico Alto. Leane wanted to surf some big waves. The ocean cooperated and we were able to do that on the first couple of days of our trip.

chicama magic.

Up next was Chicama, one of the longest lefts in the world. I had been drooling over this wave ever since Leane brought it up, and that wave was all I could think about during the weeks leading up to the trip. As it turns out, there are waves that you dream about, and then there are waves that are even better. This wave was even better.

We pulled up to an old hostel in Chicama that sat on a cliff overlooking perfect surf. Each set contained at least 12 waves that peeled perfectly along the coast; Each wave lasting for a mile at least. We had been driving for awhile, so it was time for a coffee break before getting out into the surf…

How to Drink Coffee in Peru with Leane Darling from Morgan Hoesterey on Vimeo.

After our coffee break, we spent the day surfing the best wave I had ever seen. I decided while I was out in the water that I would either surf until my legs gave out or until the sun went down, whichever happened first. Both of those things ended up happening at just about the same time, so as the sun went down, I came into the beach completely exhausted and with a giant smile on my face.

This video was originally published by SUP Magazine on October 31, 2012…

Peru Dispatch #2: Chicama from Morgan Hoesterey on Vimeo.

The third and last thing we really wanted to do while in Peru was go to Machu Picchu. This became somewhat of a difficult decision to make based on the killer surf we were getting at each of the places we had been to so far. Ultimately though, we decided that it would be a shame if we traveled all the way to Peru and didn’t get to one of the wonders of the world, so we left our boards with a friend and headed to Cusco and Aguas Calientes…

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